The French have always been leaders in the fashion industry, but in 1973, American designers, one of whom was African-American, changed the game. That momentous occasion is archived in the new film titled “Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution” presented by The Fashion Arts Society. The documentary will be shown Sept. 12 at 6 p.m. at the Toby Theatre, which is inside of the Indianapolis Museum of Art (IMA).
“I heard an interview on NPR and a woman was telling the story of Versailles ’73 and I thought ‘oh, my god. This is an incredible moment in fashion history.’ You have the breaking of the color barrier, the most prolific designers to ever walk the earth and 650 of the world’s richest people all on the same night in a chateau in Paris. I couldn’t believe it,” said Deborah Draper, writer, director and producer of “Versailles ’73.”
The documentary tells the behind-the-scenes story of a fashion show fundraiser for the Palace of Versailles, in which French and American designers competed against one another. American designers Bill Blass, Roy Halston, Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein and Oscar de la Renta participated in a fashion face-off against France’s top couturiers Yves St. Laurent, Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Ungaro and Christian Dior in front of an audience of royals and celebrities.
Raising $60 million for the chateau may have been the initial goal, but what occurred was history. During that time, the French dominated the fashion industry and although American designers were invited, the who’s who of French fashion did not expect American designs to be a threat, let alone have clothing that was clean and fresh. American fashion was the perfect reflection of early 70s lifestyle.
“After the war in the 60s, a lot of women joined the workforce. They were looking for clothing that was comfortable, chic and really representative of the modern American woman, not the women who just went to cocktail parties. Women wanted this classy, modern clothing because they were away from the home and in society more,” said Niloo Paydar, curator of textile and fashion arts at the IMA.
That night is known as the birthplace of American fashion design as we know it today. The French specialized in fancy, couture clothing but following the fashion show, buyers and private citizens could look to New York for good, quality, beautiful clothes. Draper said this event expanded the competitive landscape and led to the recognition of American ready-to-wear fashion and runway shows in Europe.
The five American designers, including Indiana natives Bill Blass and Roy Halston, got individual boosts in popularity following the fashion show and today are icons in American fashion.
The documentary shows that what also made Versailles ’73 monumental was that the fashion show broke the color barrier as the American designers showcased a large number of African-American models on European fashion runways. The French also received a culture shock when American models took over the catwalk flaunting fashions to disco music.
“In 1973 disco was new for everybody. They played Al Green and ELO. They also moved when they showed the clothes – they didn’t just walk straight. They strutted, they stepped,” explained Draper.
It is important to note that among the American designers, Stephen Burrows is African-American. He is credited with creating the versatile wrap dress.
“The impetus of doing this story is that African-American women and a man played such an integral role in catapulting the American design industry to global dominance. That story has been buried so I wanted to take the opportunity to bring it to life so people can be aware of these accomplishments. They’re like the Tuskegee Airmen of fashion,” said Draper, who was able to interview Burrows for her documentary.
One may think the outcome of such a historic night for America was negative, but the documentary shows how the French welcomed this night of firsts. French media of the time reported that the “Americans came to Paris and stole the show.” Paydar said the French never took American fashion seriously and “Versailles ‘73” shows this shift.
“Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution” is said to be a documentary that is relevant, fun and most importantly historic. Paydar added that the documentary is an eye-opening film on an event that was crucial to the fashion industry.
“This is really groundbreaking work,” she said. “We want people to see this and understand how important fashion is in our lives and how this event brought everyone together.”
For more information, call (317) 923-1331 or visit imamuseum.org. For information about “Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution,” visit Versailles73movie.com.
