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Sunday, January 24, 2021

Wine of the week

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Wine of the week

Ceretto, Dolcetto d’Alba (Italy) “Rossana” 2007, $25.

Dolcetto is a grape variety in addition to a wine. Native to Piedmont in northwest

Italy, the grape is almost black in color, so the wine needs little contact with the skins during fermentation. As a result, it’s typically low in tannin but displays bright acidity, and tastes both light and refreshing. Many examples do seem fairly simple, but the best can be truly delightful. They’re a welcome alternative to the mass of clunky, overly alcoholic red wines that have store shelves groaning these days.

Dolcetto, when handled with care, yields a red wine with aromas and flavors redolent of dark cherries. There can be echoes of anise and spice, and the wines often finish with a hint of tartness that makes you eager for another sip. Because they do not have substantial tannins, they are not candidates for extended aging, and show best when drunk within two or three years of the vintage.

Ceretto’s 2007 “Rossana” from the Alba region tastes delicious right now. Its enticing fruit and spice character makes it a fine companion for many pork and poultry dishes. This time of year, you might want to serve it alongside roast turkey.

(Imported by Wilson Daniels.)

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